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ABOUT MADEIRA
Madeira is one of those places that doesn’t try to impress you, yet somehow does it constantly. No overwhelming cities, no rush, no noise that demands your attention. It’s an island that reveals itself slowly. Layer by layer.
You don’t “do” Madeira. You move through it. And somewhere along the way, it pulls you in.
FUNCHAL
Funchal, for me, was the starting point. You land, pick up your car, and within minutes you feel it: this island moves at a different pace.
It’s not a city you rush through. It’s a place to settle into. A coffee by the water, a slow walk through the streets, adjusting to the altitude changes that are always just around the corner.
But just like in other spots I have visited, the real journey starts when you leave the city.
The moment the roads begin to twist, climbing into the mountains, with the ocean slowly disappearing behind you: that’s when Madeira starts to speak.
FANAL FOREST
Since Madeira is so small (you can drive around the whole island in less than 4 hours) there’s no best order to pick what to do when. So here’s a random order of the activities I picked and why.
Fanal feels unreal.
Low-hanging clouds drifting through ancient laurel trees. Silence, broken only by wind moving through the branches. Cows wandering freely like they belong to another time.
Fanal Forest is one of those places where conditions matter more than anything. If the mist rolls in, it becomes something magical. If it doesn’t, it’s still beautiful, but it won’t hit the same.
I went early. Almost no one around. Just me, the fog, and the feeling that I stepped into something that wasn’t meant to be found.
This is the kind of place you don’t rush. You walk. You stop. You look around more than you look ahead. It’s like a fairytale.
PR11 - Vereda dos Balcões
PR11, also known as Vereda dos Balcões, is probably one of the shortest and easiest hikes you can do on the island, but still very worth it.
The trail itself is super straightforward, almost flat the entire way, and takes you through a calm forest setting before opening up to a viewpoint at the end. And that’s really what you’re here for: a wide view over the valley, with the mountain peaks of the island rising up in the distance. If you don’t have mist ;)
It’s the kind of hike you can easily combine with something else during the day, or just do if you’re not in the mood for a long trek. It can get a bit busy at the viewpoint, but if you time it right (early or later in the day), it’s a really chill stop that still gives you that typical Madeira landscape.
THE PR- HIKES
Madeira’s PR hikes are honestly one of the main reasons to come here. The island is full of these official trails, and they make it super easy to explore completely different landscapes without overthinking your route. One moment you’re walking along a narrow levada with waterfalls next to you, the next you’re up in the mountains above the clouds. What I liked most is that every hike feels different, so it never gets repetitive. Some are busy, some feel almost empty, but they all give you a really good sense of how diverse the island actually is.
Levada do Moinho
Levada do Moinho was one of those hikes that surprised me in a really good way. It’s a bit less talked about, which already makes a difference, and it just feels more local from the start. The trail itself is super relaxed to walk, following the levada through green hills with constant views over the valley and the ocean in the distance.
What makes this one stand out is that it naturally flows into Levada Nova l if you keep going, giving you a longer, more varied hike without having to think about logistics. And towards the end, you slowly make your way down towards Ponta do Sol, which is kind of perfect. Finishing a hike and ending up by the ocean, grabbing a drink somewhere and just sitting there for a bit, that’s exactly the kind of rhythm that makes Madeira so good. This is where Madeira started to feel like more than just a beautiful island.
PR6 - Levada das 25 Fontes
PR6, also known as Levada das 25 Fontes, is probably the most popular hike on the island, and you’ll notice that pretty quickly. It’s one of those spots everyone recommends, so if you go at the wrong time, it can feel a bit crowded.
That said, I still really enjoyed it. The trail itself is beautiful, and that typical green Madeira landscape is all around you. And once you reach the final spot with all the small waterfalls coming down into the pool, you get why it’s so well-known.
If there’s one tip: go early. It makes a big difference. I started before most people arrived, which meant I could enjoy the quiet on the way there. On the way back, you’ll pass the crowds but by then, you’ve already had your moment.
Achada do Teixeira
Pico Ruivo via Achada do Teixeira is probably the easiest way to reach the highest point of the island, Pico Ruivo. It’s a relatively short hike compared to other routes, but it still feels like a proper mountain experience.
You start already high up, which means you skip a big part of the climb. From there, the trail takes you along a well-maintained path with constant views over the mountains. On a clear day, it feels endless: layers of peaks stretching out in every direction.
It’s not a technical hike, but the elevation and exposure still make it feel rewarding. And once you reach the top, you really get that “roof of the island” feeling. I went around sunrise, which made it even better. The light up there hits different, especially when the clouds start moving through the valleys below you.
If you want the experience without committing to a long, heavy hike, this is 100% the one to do. The famous one is ofcourse the PR1 hike but this one was closed during my visit, so this one was a great alternative.
GETTING AROUND MADEIRA
For me, Madeira is not an island you want to experience from just one place. The whole magic is in moving. In waking up somewhere new, chasing weather, light, and whatever direction feels right that day.
That’s why I went with 44Campers: a Suzuki Jimny with a rooftop tent: and honestly, it completely changed the way I experienced the island.
It gives you a different kind of freedom. You’re not tied to check-in times or fixed locations. If the weather looks better on the other side of the island, you just go. If you find a spot you like, you stay a bit longer. If the wind picks up in the mountains (which it definitely can), you drive down and find a calmer place near the coast.
Driving in Madeira is an experience on its own. Steep roads, sharp turns, constant elevation changes. But that’s exactly what makes it fun. And having a small 4x4 like the Jimny makes it way more relaxed, especially when roads get narrow or a bit rough.
Sleeping in the rooftop tent added another layer to it. Waking up above the clouds, or falling asleep with the sound of the ocean in the distance, those are the moments that stick.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
One of the things I didn’t necessarily expect: Madeira is seriously good when it comes to food and coffee. These are a few spots I’d like to mention, spread across the island:
Art Food Corner – easily one of our favorite breakfast/lunch spots. Good coffee, fresh food, and just a nice place to start your day.
The Studio: Specialty Coffee & Brunch
Maktub Pub – super chill spot right by the ocean. Ideal after a hike.
Delícias da Bia - Arguably one of the best bakeries of Madeira.
Avista Navios – great for a relaxed lunch with a view.
Venda do André – more local, less polished, but really good food.
